When manufacturers produce insulation, they do so with specific R values. So when you are buying insulation, consult your supplier to get more detailed information on what exact R value each insulation carries. As discussed earlier, In Australia, the BCA has specified the R value requirements for all regions across the country. Here is a chart and map that details this information:. Zone 1 and 2 regions require lower R values of 3 or 4, while zones require and R value of 5.
As we reach zone 8, R values of 6 are required. As you can see, R values have been well thought out to fit various climates and properties. While it can sound quite technical, if you have grasped the concepts discussed today, you will have a great understanding regarding the role R values play in your journey of selecting the right insulation—including the specific insulation material that suits you best.
If you would like to get insulation for your living space, or simply acquire more information about how it could benefit you—call us today on How has this information shaped your understanding of insulation and R values? Let us know by leaving a comment below. Your email address will not be published.
Foilboard Insulation Systems is one of the leading Australian owned insulation manufacturers and suppliers of energy saving, sustainable building insulation products. Email: technical foilboard. Enquire: The average recommended R value of insulating material for basement insulation in North America is R There are different types of house insulation materials, each having a different R value. R value for house insulation standards table of r value for house insulation standards The house insulation r value of insulating boards are: Expanded polystyrene 4.
Water is one of the biggest concerns in regards to R value and house insulation. The moisture will weigh down the insulation leaving gaps and bare spots. It protects your house insulation and its R value by helping keep your home dry and healthy. Click for house insulation r value information. Click for r value tips on home insulation. Infiltration is usually the largest single loss, even before poor insulation. This is inches of crack length. This is the same as a perfect window being open almost 0.
And that is for every window. Every day, all the time. Go after infiltration before anything else. Even older storms can benefit from weather stripping added or original. The only way it could be determined would be averages which are not real world concerning your house. Another factor would be the layout of your house and the affected areas. True r-values are not reached with typical fiberglass insulations as they settle in the cavaties, air infiltration throughout the batts, lowers the claimed r-value.
This doesn't affect any kind of study or percentages for a grant,but to know real world what you have in your house as an insulation. Windows,doors,ceiling heights all factor in to the true r-value of a home along with many other elements.
I would think the same outfit that did your energy audit could come up with the projected averages, even if not real world. New build-D R Horton. Mortgage Amount. R-value is a measure of a material's resistance to conductive heat flow - or said another way - R-value rates the thermal resistance of building materials.
It is important to note the "per sqft" part of the formula. Heat travels in three ways, conduction, convection, and radiation. R-value numbers are based on the thermal resistance to conducted heat loss in a square foot of the material to be tested and R-value "measurements" do not take into account either radiation or convection losses or gains. Imagine an exterior wall with a couple of windows, 2x6 studs - 16" OC, electrical outlets, and fiberglass insulation.
Many folks would automatically say that this wall has an insulating value of R based on 6-inches thickness of fiberglass plus wall sheathing plus drywall. If a stud, or a window, or even an electrical outlet were involved, then the R-value numbers could become meaningless. And accurate only in the sense of measuring the "ideal" of a portion of the wall with regards to resistance to conductive heat flow. In the real world, R-value is most useful because it is easy to "see" the difference between a material that is "R" and a material that is "R".
But also in the real world, R-value is not really a very realistic measurement when applied to an entire structure - unless the structure was subject to an energy audit and the stated R-value was computed using U-value formulas which were then converted into R-value for easier comprehension.
To illustrate a simple example, imagine that we have one sqft of insulation type and thickness not important for this example. If it takes 3. Since Not exactly. You compute a weighted factor for the wall including the studs and insulation by area. The same is done for windows, especially if existing construction when data is rarely available. There are any number of references that give values for commonly built walls brick, masonry, frame, insulation value, etc. Infiltration is tougher to get a handle on, so a blower door test is a useful measurement.
It is possible to convert the 'air changes per hour' into a volume number and then determine a leakage loss value. You can even use previous heating bills to determine usage and then adjust for the weather conditions that occurred at the time. I often use this as a check on calculations. The experiment has been performed if the place has heating or cooling. All you need to do is extract the results.
Did the auditor perform a blower door test? How did they determine and assign values to the existing walls? Did they remove any outlets to try and measure or look into the wall cavities? There are a lot of factors that are used even for a simple wall. Interior film factor, drywall or plaster dead air space if present , any sheathing present, another air gap usually , then the masonry, and another film factor gets adjusted for prevailing wind.
I expect to spend at least hours measuring and poking around, than another more doing the calculations. I have my own spreadsheets and used to do this manually, 1 sheet per room. My comments were intended to hopefully convey to the original poster that it would be pretty much impossible for him to calculate the overall R-value of his home based on the information given in the original post. Basically, the problem of the "2x6 stud wall with 6" fiberglass insulation - automatic R
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