Your Peace Lily will grow and bloom much more readily and profusely in bright, indirect lighting. You should place your plant close to a window while avoiding direct sunlight. This article goes into more detail about lighting conditions for houseplants and explains some of the best ways to check whether your plants are getting enough light. Ideal conditions include north or west-facing window sills.
Under natural conditions, these plants initiate flowers during the shorter days of winter. As the days become longer during late winter and spring, the plant produces flowers sporadically. It should be noted that the flowers of the Peace Lily are actually tiny insignificant blooms dotted along the spadix, which is the stick-like protrusion in the middle of what is thought to be the flower.
Once you have located the ideal position for your plant and it starts to happily produce flowers, you should deadhead regularly in order to encourage further blooms. Peace Lilies require regular feeding with a well-balanced, water-soluble house plant food. A plant that does not have sufficient nutrients available to it will not produce flowers. This can happen if the plant has not been repotted for several years, or if you almost never fertilize your Peace Lily.
Look for a fertilizer with nutrient value, like the one I use. This will encourage healthy growth throughout the plant. If you err towards a fertilizer that is too heavy in nitrogen this will boost leaf grow but at the expense of flowers. Once you have fertilized your plant, be sure to water well afterward so that the fertilizer drains through to the whole root system.
In the warmer months of spring and summer, you should look to fertilize your plant every 2 to 3 weeks. During the cooler months, you can reduce this to every 6 to 8 weeks.
As an addition to chemical fertilizer, you may want to add coffee grinds as a top dressing from time to time. This will provide your plant with a little extra nutrient boost. The same is even more true with lilies. I turn a little deeper hole but plant shallow, a lily will move itself and is closer to the chill line. The nice thing about this area is that Asiatics are reliable in pots.
I have large pots that each contain a patio rose , start with one lily bulb, and some annuals self sowers. Dress a quarter of soil each year and in three years there is a nice clump of lilies to put in the ground and I replace all the soil and start over with one lily in the pot. They are fed a little heavier because of the rose but I think they just grow faster. I do not move the pots in winter. I clip my tops after blooming to stop seed formation and would lightly clip the top of any that do not flower.
This year I am going to try pulling the leaves with stem to propagate. Nice to meet you Javamom! Have a joyful day! Thank you!!! Glad to hear from you I also want to thanks jmorth for sending me the bulbs of gorgeous gloriosas, aztec and Pineapple LIlies, hopefully they will love their new home in TX and give me beautiful blooms like jmorth has!!! Look what's in the mail today Thank you jmorth!!!
No I will have to take photos to show how they grow in hot North Texas Summer!!! What a terrific mail parcel you received Javamom from jmorth!! Now we all know that we blokes like a good picture, so as I scrolled down the thread, I only stopped at the end with the pic and tried to ID what the bulbs were.
Well it was easy to see the gloriosa and I was pretty sure about the Aztec lily sprekelia but for the life of me, could not ID the others until I read Javamom's preceeding post. And so I now know what pineapple lilies eucomis look like! Make sure to plant your bulb in well-draining soil that stays moist without being overly wet.
Too much moisture can cause the bulb to rot and encourage damaging fungal growth, such as fusarium, which causes basal rot. Your lily bulb makes a tasty treat for several types of creatures. Deer have been known to paw at the loose soil above a fresh bulb to access it, while mice and rabbits attack from below.
Slugs, snails and worms might take a taste as well, leaving holes and other damage behind. Even when these creatures don't eat the entire bulb, it might be damaged enough that it won't grow or can't bloom. Lily bulbs should be planted as soon as possible, after the last frost in the spring or before the first frost in the fall.
To propagate from seed, sow the seed in pots in the late winter or early spring in a cold frame. Seeds should be treated with a fungicide to prevent the fungal disease Botrytis.
Within two to four weeks, the seed should germinate. Make sure to sow the seed thinly and use a fertile medium. When they reach their dormant stage, divide the young bulbs. Put two or three in each pot and grow them there for another year or more before planting them outdoors in their permanent places. Always move the plants when they are dormant. You ask, is it worth it? But there is only one way to find out: Plant them!
I have the same problem as Nancy. The leaves, mainly at the top, are turning brown adn falling of. What can I do? Regards Norma. Different plants are forced for holidays throughout the year and sold in different parts of the country. If you still have it, plant it in the ground—not for a flower this year, but maybe for next.
The success of transplanted forced plants is unpredictable: some thrive, some never quite regain their holiday beauty. Hi, Melissa. You should apply a thin layer of compost each spring, followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch. We purchased beautiful white lilies at Christmas, and planted them in a pot. They bloomed through the holidays, and now the leaves and stalks are brown. What to we need to do to keep them alive so they will bloom again next winter? Thank you, Nancy. The lily was probably forced to bloom for the holiday; different plants are forced for holidays throughout the year.
The success of transplanted forced plants is unpredictable: some thrive, some never quite regain their oliday beauty. Skip to main content. You are here Gardening » Growing Guides. How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Lilies. By Catherine Boeckmann. Lily Oriental Colorado Longfield Gardens. When to Plant Lilies In most regions, plant lily bulbs in the fall, at least four weeks prior to your first fall frost date.
Bulbs planted in the autumn will have well established roots in the spring. The bulbs benefit from a winter chill to produce big blooms. In areas with particularly harsh winters, consider planting in the spring instead. Plant as soon as the threat of frost has passed. Container-grown lily plants can be planted anytime during the early summer.
Buy the bulbs close to planting time. Choosing and Preparing a Planting Site Select a site with soil that drains well. How can you tell? After a good rain, find a spot that is the first to dry out. Water trapped beneath the overlapping scales on the lily bulb may cause rot, so a well-drained site is essential.
Lilies need lots of sun. Most of the popular varieties prefer acidic to neutral soil, but some are lime-tolerant or prefer alkaline soils e. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches.
The deep planting encourages the developing stem to send out roots to help stabilize the plant and perhaps eliminate the need for staking. Also, deep planting keeps lily bulbs cool when temperatures soar. Enrich the soil with leaf mold or well-rotted organic matter to encourage good drainage.
Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting. How to Plant Lilies Plant the bulbs 3 times as deep as the height of the bulb and set the bulb in the hole pointy side up. Fill the hole with soil and tamp gently. For visual appeal, plant lilies in groups of 3 to 5 bulbs. Water thoroughly at time of planting. How to Care for Lilies During active growth, water freely—especially if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Keep lilies mulched so that their roots are cool.
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